- Get Electrical Permit.
- "The first is called the rough inspection. This takes place when you have installed all of the boxes and wires to the point that you are ready for the walls to be closed up by wallboard or drywall. This inspection needs to be done before the insulation is installed so that the inspector has a clear view of all of the wirings from here to there."
- "The second inspection takes place when the house is complete, but before you are allowed to move in. This inspection is called the final inspection. At this point, all of the walls are closed in, paint is finished, floors are complete and you are ready to install the furniture. Be sure that all of the circuits are functioning and every light has been hung, especially electrically. This inspection is called the final inspection. Remember, if the inspector approves your work, it means that it meets professional standards and that it is up to code."
- Wall outlets should be placed every 12 feet.
- Hallways more than 10 feet long must have at least one outlet.
- 15 amp circuits for general rooms.
- Measure outlet and switch heights to see that they are consistent
- Outlets, often called receptacles, should be at least 12" above the floor
- Switches should be at least 48" above the floor
- Proper wire anchoring. The wires should be attached to wall studs to secure them. Keep the first staple no father than 8" from a box and then at least every 4' thereafter.
- Cables should be run through the center of wall studs to help keep the wire from drywall screws and nails.
- The horizontal runs should be at least 20-24 inches above the floor and each wall stud penetration should be protected by a metal wire protective plate.
- Only install GFCI (ground fault current interrupter) outlets. There must be an outlet within 3 feet of the outside edge of sink basin.
- No outlets face-up on countertops.
- Outlets must be on at least one separate 20 amp branch circuit. The reason is because this outlet usually powers high-wattage devices like hair dryers.